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Home / Symptoms / Control Arm Replacement Cost

The cost of replacing a control arm varies depending of the type of repair you're looking for, do you want a long-lasting control arm fix? Or just a temporary solution?

If you are short on time and want to fast-track the process to professional help, clickYes

Control Arm Replacement Cost: Symptoms, and Guide

The average cost of replacing a control arm for non-luxury vehicle brands like Chevrolet, Toyota, and Ford is typically between $320 and $360, depending on the vehicle model.

For higher-end vehicles like performance cars and luxury SUVs, the prices are different. For example, a control arm replacement can fall around the $2,000 range on a 2024 Audi A4.

What are the costs of changing the control arm?

A control arm replacement uses resources and labor from professional sites with expensive tools and machines. All of that changes the cost of replacing the part. Let’s discuss these in more detail:

The labor rate: Labor rates change between professionals (ASE technicians charge more than rookie mechanics) and wage differences for areas.
The shop’s neighborhood/area: The area will determine the replacement cost. For example, Santa Barbara in California has prices different from Albuquerque in New Mexico; this could be due to lease rates, cost of living, etc.
The vehicle type: European brands like Mercedes, BMW, Audi, etc., have different prices for replacing the control arm. For example, a Mercedes-Benz C300 control arm replacement can typically start at the $1,000 range.

Let's Get To The Bottom Of It!

Have you been hearing clunking or knocking noises when driving over bumps?

These sounds often mean the control arm’s ball joint or bushings are worn out. When these parts get loose, they let metal components move or hit each other, which creates that knocking noise when the suspension flexes.

Have you noticed the steering feeling loose or less responsive than usual?

A damaged control arm can throw off the suspension geometry, which affects how the wheels respond to your steering input. It can make the steering feel disconnected or delayed, especially at higher speeds or during turns.

Has the car been pulling to one side while driving or braking?

A worn or bent control arm can mess with your wheel alignment, which causes the car to drift or pull to one side. You’ll often feel this through the steering wheel, and it usually gets worse when braking or accelerating.

Are your tires wearing out unevenly or faster than normal?

If your control arm isn’t holding the wheel at the correct angle, parts of the tire will be in contact with the road more than others. That leads to uneven wear, which shortens tire life and makes the car handle worse over time.

Did you recently hit a big pothole, curb, or speed bump hard?

A single heavy impact can bend or crack the control arm or damage its bushings, even if nothing looks broken right away. It can also throw the suspension out of alignment and start causing other problems later.

Is the front end of the car dipping too much or bouncing over bumps?

That could mean the control arm isn’t holding the suspension in place like it should. When bushings wear out or the arm loosens, it can’t absorb road impacts properly, so you’ll feel extra bouncing or instability.

What kind of noises does a bad control arm make?

Usually clunking, knocking, or popping. You'll hear it when you go over bumps, brake hard, or make turns. It happens because the bushings or ball joint are loose or worn out, letting metal parts shift or slap around.

Can a bad control arm mess up my alignment?

Yeah, 100%. A bad control arm throws off your suspension geometry, which throws your wheels out of alignment. That leads to the car pulling to one side and the tires wearing out unevenly.

Is it safe to drive with a damaged control arm?

No, it’s really not. You’re risking a lot—steering can get unpredictable, the wheel can shift or collapse, and if the ball joint fails, you could straight-up lose control of the car. It’s one of those parts you don’t play with.

How do I check if my control arm is bad?

You can look underneath for visible damage—cracks, bent metal, or torn bushings. Also try shaking the wheel when the car’s lifted—if it wobbles, that’s a sign. And if you’re hearing clunks or feeling loose steering, it’s worth getting it looked at by a mechanic.

What tools do I need to replace a control arm?

You’ll need a jack and jack stands, socket/wrench set, breaker bar or impact wrench, a ball joint separator (aka pickle fork), and a torque wrench. Some jobs also need a press if you're swapping out bushings.

What’s the difference between a control arm and a tie rod?

Control arm = part of the suspension, helps the wheel move up and down.
Tie rod = part of the steering system, makes the wheel turn left and right.
They work together, but do totally different jobs.

Can a bad control arm mess with how the car handles?

Definitely. The car can feel loose, unstable, or floaty when turning. Steering might feel disconnected, like the car’s not following your hands right.

How often should I get my control arms checked?

At least once a year, or every 12,000 to 15,000 miles. If you drive on rough roads or off-road a lot, check more often. Also, anytime you get suspension or alignment work, have them looked at.

What are the signs that the control arm bushings are going bad?

You’ll hear clunks, feel vibration in the steering wheel, notice uneven tire wear, or get a loose, floaty feel when driving. The rubber bushings might look cracked or dried out if you check them.

Will a bad control arm wear out my tires faster?

Yeah, fast and uneven. If the control arm is throwing off your alignment or letting the wheel wiggle around, your tires are gonna wear out way quicker than normal—especially on the inner or outer edges.

Are there more costs to consider besides common replacement costs?

Yes, the common replacement costs are expected in any control arm replacement. But you might get a better-specialized service, depending on what you want to achieve with your vehicle.

Here are the possible types of service you can get.

“Just” a fix: This means you just need the control arm replacement and nothing else. The downside is that you might not discover what caused the control arm to go bad in the first place. So, let’s assume there’s a problem somewhere else in your car that’s forcing the control arm to wear down faster. In this situation, replacing it won’t solve the issue; it might just make you return to the shop shortly to replace the arm again. Going with this type of service probably won’t have extra costs besides the common ones at first. But it may mean you’ll spend way more than expected if the control arm keeps wearing out faster.
Long-lasting fix: This means you want to permanently fix your vehicle and understand what might be wrong with it. So, you want to investigate if there’s an issue causing your control arm to wear down faster than expected. You’re willing to spend more money to cover extra processes that ensure your car runs safely and reliably.

Costs of a long-lasting control arm fix

In addition to the common replacement costs, a long-lasting replacement has more factors that change the final price. Here’s what you can initially expect:

Suspension system inspection: A suspension system inspection usually costs below $200. This is an investigation of the suspension system components that involves the labor of service advisors and mechanics.
Component replacements: The inspection might indicate worn and affected components that require replacement. This depends on the specific condition of the vehicle.
Other system repairs: The shop might find other malfunctioning systems affected by the problem that require replacements and/or computer reprogramming. For example, replacing parts of the brake and steering systems that are worn out due to a bad control arm can cost north of $1,000.

Symptoms of a bad control arm

A bad control arm will make your vehicle drive shabbily. You’ll mainly notice that steering the vehicle is harder, either due to tough or loose steering. Also, clunking noises while steering the car or going over bumpy spots will pop up. Let’s see these and more symptoms of a bad control arm in more detail:

Clunking or Knocking Noises – Loud sounds when driving over bumps, accelerating, or braking.
Loose or Unstable Steering – Steering feels sloppy or delayed in response.
Uneven or Rapid Tire Wear – One side of the tire wears out faster due to misalignment.
Steering Wheel Vibrations – Shaking felt in the steering wheel, especially at higher speeds.
Car Pulling to One Side – Vehicle drifts, requiring constant steering correction.
Visible Damage – Bent or cracked control arm, worn bushings, or loose ball joint.

What’s at risk with a faulty control arm?

Some other car parts that work together with the control arm will suffer. Here are some of these parts and how much they might add to the repair cost if the control arm isn’t dealt with quickly:

Ball Joint – $100 to $300
Control Arm Bushing – $50 to $150
Tie Rod End – $80 to $250
Strut Assembly – $300 to $600
Shock Absorber – $150 to $400
Sway Bar Link – $70 to $200
Wheel Bearing – $200 to $500
Alignment Service – $100 to $200
Tire Replacement (due to uneven wear) – $100 to $300 per tire

You’ll run safety risks if your vehicle keeps driving with a faulty control arm. Here are some unexpected things that can go wrong:

Wheel Detachment – A failed ball joint or control arm can cause the wheel to separate from the suspension.
Loss of Steering Control – The wheel may move unpredictably, especially during turns or braking.
Sudden Suspension Collapse – The suspension can give out, causing the car to drop on one side while driving.
Brake Instability – Uneven suspension geometry affects braking performance and increases stopping distance.
Vehicle Pulling to One Side – Misalignment can cause the car to drift, making it harder to stay in your lane.
Increased Risk in Emergency Maneuvers – Poor handling response reduces your ability to swerve or avoid hazards.
Tire Blowouts – Uneven wear from poor alignment raises the chance of a tire failing at high speeds.

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Pinpoint the Issue

Have you been hearing clunking or knocking noises when driving over bumps?

These sounds often mean the control arm’s ball joint or bushings are worn out. When these parts get loose, they let metal components move or hit each other, which creates that knocking noise when the suspension flexes.
Have you noticed the steering feeling loose or less responsive than usual?

A damaged control arm can throw off the suspension geometry, which affects how the wheels respond to your steering input. It can make the steering feel disconnected or delayed, especially at higher speeds or during turns.
Has the car been pulling to one side while driving or braking?

A worn or bent control arm can mess with your wheel alignment, which causes the car to drift or pull to one side. You’ll often feel this through the steering wheel, and it usually gets worse when braking or accelerating.
Are your tires wearing out unevenly or faster than normal?

If your control arm isn’t holding the wheel at the correct angle, parts of the tire will be in contact with the road more than others. That leads to uneven wear, which shortens tire life and makes the car handle worse over time.
Did you recently hit a big pothole, curb, or speed bump hard?

A single heavy impact can bend or crack the control arm or damage its bushings, even if nothing looks broken right away. It can also throw the suspension out of alignment and start causing other problems later.
Is the front end of the car dipping too much or bouncing over bumps?

That could mean the control arm isn’t holding the suspension in place like it should. When bushings wear out or the arm loosens, it can’t absorb road impacts properly, so you’ll feel extra bouncing or instability.

FAQ on Control Arm Replacement

What kind of noises does a bad control arm make?

Usually clunking, knocking, or popping. You'll hear it when you go over bumps, brake hard, or make turns. It happens because the bushings or ball joint are loose or worn out, letting metal parts shift or slap around.
Can a bad control arm mess up my alignment?

Yeah, 100%. A bad control arm throws off your suspension geometry, which throws your wheels out of alignment. That leads to the car pulling to one side and the tires wearing out unevenly.
Is it safe to drive with a damaged control arm?

No, it’s really not. You’re risking a lot—steering can get unpredictable, the wheel can shift or collapse, and if the ball joint fails, you could straight-up lose control of the car. It’s one of those parts you don’t play with.
How do I check if my control arm is bad?

You can look underneath for visible damage—cracks, bent metal, or torn bushings. Also try shaking the wheel when the car’s lifted—if it wobbles, that’s a sign. And if you’re hearing clunks or feeling loose steering, it’s worth getting it looked at by a mechanic.
What tools do I need to replace a control arm?

You’ll need a jack and jack stands, socket/wrench set, breaker bar or impact wrench, a ball joint separator (aka pickle fork), and a torque wrench. Some jobs also need a press if you're swapping out bushings.
What’s the difference between a control arm and a tie rod?

Control arm = part of the suspension, helps the wheel move up and down.
Tie rod = part of the steering system, makes the wheel turn left and right.
They work together, but do totally different jobs.
Can a bad control arm mess with how the car handles?

Definitely. The car can feel loose, unstable, or floaty when turning. Steering might feel disconnected, like the car’s not following your hands right.
How often should I get my control arms checked?

At least once a year, or every 12,000 to 15,000 miles. If you drive on rough roads or off-road a lot, check more often. Also, anytime you get suspension or alignment work, have them looked at.
What are the signs that the control arm bushings are going bad?

You’ll hear clunks, feel vibration in the steering wheel, notice uneven tire wear, or get a loose, floaty feel when driving. The rubber bushings might look cracked or dried out if you check them.
Will a bad control arm wear out my tires faster?

Yeah, fast and uneven. If the control arm is throwing off your alignment or letting the wheel wiggle around, your tires are gonna wear out way quicker than normal—especially on the inner or outer edges.

Typical fixes to address the cause(s)

These are typical processes and repair services that fix a check engine light issue

How to get transparent, long-lasting repairs

If you want to fix the root cause, relying on online price estimates is misleading. Online estimates will only price the specific repair, e.g., the control arm replacement, and they won’t consider whether your vehicle needs an inspection to investigate and deal with the problem as a whole.

The solution for the root cause of your control arm being damaged is based specifically on your vehicle’s condition. This involves many components and procedures that won’t appear on online estimates because every case has specific needs.

The best way to get a precise estimate is to seek shops with a “transparency process” to perform a suspension system inspection for you. Their transparency relies on documenting everything about your control arm’s condition and clarifying their findings using edited images and videos they took of your car, explaining their suggestions and quotes.

Let’s see an example of a suspension system investigation because of a faulty control arm.

A Transparent, Long-lasting Control Arm Repair Example

A complete suspension system inspection checks everything about the system’s condition, investigates chronic issues, and checks if all suspension components (wheels, shocks, struts, steering rod, control arm, etc.) work as expected.

For instance, if a shop is requested to do a suspension system inspection due to a faulty control arm, the mechanics will look through each control arm-related component.

They’ll check every component around and related to the control arm for signs of wear, tear, or leaks to find any clues about damage and excessive wear. The inspection may reveal that various components need replacement and identify the culprit causing extra stress on the control arm.

What is the control arm?

The control arm is a chunk of metal that has a specific shape and sits under your vehicle, connecting the wheels to the suspension and steering. The shape of the control arm can vary, but all in all, it’s like a steel bracket that runs under your vehicle and stretches to the wheels while being bolted to the vehicle’s frame.

What does it do? The control arm, while connected to the steering and suspension, holds your wheels front-to-back so it can move up and down in the best way possible. The arm makes sure that whenever you hit bumps or go through some sloped curves, your vehicle won’t lose alignment.

Can I replace the control arm at home?

Steer away from trying any DIY on the control arm if you’re not experienced with automotive mechanics. First off, you're dealing with a major suspension component that directly affects the steering, handling, and safety of the vehicle. If any of the tiny pieces you remove while replacing aren’t put together properly and tightly, you might risk making your vehicle unsafe and damaged.

Additionally, control arms are often under a lot of tension because of how they're connected to other suspension parts like coil springs or struts. Releasing that tension the wrong way can cause parts to snap out violently, which can result in serious injury. Plus, properly having the control arm removed and getting rid of this tension requires some hefty, expensive tools; if you use regular tools, you’ll spend hours or even days on this task.

You might lose alignment: Replacing a control arm usually throws off your alignment, which means you’ll need a proper alignment next—something you can’t do at home without precision equipment.

Control Arm: Upper, Lower, and Bushings

The control arm typically has different shapes that fit suspension types. You’ll commonly find these sections in some control arms: the upper arm and the lower arm. They work similarly, but they’re not quite the same; there’s a tad difference.

Upper Control Arm

Found in double-wishbone suspension systems (common in trucks, SUVs, and some performance cars).
Mounts above the wheel hub, connecting the frame to the top of the steering knuckle.
Works with the lower control arm to keep the wheel stable while allowing vertical movement.
Usually features a ball joint on the wheel hub side and bushings on the frame side.
If it goes bad, you might notice clunking sounds, uneven tire wear, or loose steering.

Lower Control Arm

Found in both MacPherson strut and double-wishbone suspensions (most common type).
Connects the frame to the bottom of the steering knuckle or wheel hub.
In MacPherson strut setups, it’s the only control arm and takes on all suspension duties.
Supports the weight of the vehicle and absorbs road impacts.
Failure causes steering instability, alignment issues, and suspension noises.

Control arm bushings

Control arm bushings are rubber mounts that hug the areas where the control arm connects to suspension, wheels, and steering parts, cushioning these spots. The bushings protect these components from impact, rubbing, and wear by absorbing vibrations and road shocks.

The dangers of a bad control arm

Driving with a bad control arm is a huge no-no. First, steering the vehicle will be different and dangerous, especially at higher speeds. Then, your car won’t drive well in bumpy terrains, risking sudden steering loss where you most need it; you’ll also have zero comfort, considering the suspension won’t work well. Let’s discuss these risks in better detail:

Loss of Steering Control – A damaged control arm can let the wheel move unpredictably, risking total loss of control during turns or over bumps.

Suspension Collapse – If the arm breaks completely, the suspension can drop on one side, making the car undrivable and dangerous if it happens while driving.

Rapid Tire Wear – Misalignment caused by a faulty control arm leads to uneven and accelerated tire wear, increasing the chance of blowouts.

Increased Braking Distance – Poor contact between the tire and road surface can reduce stopping power and extend braking distance.

Damage to Other Components – Continued driving can stress and damage related parts like struts, tie rods, and even the vehicle’s frame.

Complete Vehicle Instability – In emergency maneuvers, the car may not respond correctly, increasing the risk of losing control or causing an accident.

The 'Find Shops Providing a DVI' Method

A shop with transparent inspections commonly does DVIs too, which are free-of-charge visual inspections with the same level of transparency. You can find shops providing a DVI to get the reassurance that any inspection or repair will also be transparent.

This method focuses on two things:

Does the shop have a modern DVI?
Does the shop have certifications?

What’s a DVI? As mentioned earlier, it’s like an annual physical visit to the doctor to assess the body’s vital signs, but for a car instead; most auto repair shops don’t charge to do it. The DVI regularly creates your vehicle’s “state of health,” explaining its overall condition.

The mechanic uses the DVI results to inform the conditions of your vehicle’s systems and the recommendations to get it running reliably. If they find issues, they’ll list them in order of priority.

A DVI helps with a control arm replacement

The DVI starts with the mechanic checking vehicle systems (brake caliper, wheel hub, rotors, shocks, struts, etc.) for signs of wear/tear/leaks. They’ll document everything through notes, videos, and pictures.

Here are some important things about a DVI:

It’s a visual inspection: The mechanic looks at the car’s components’ surface, searching for obvious problem signs.
It also checks for noises: The mechanic listens to your car's sounds and points out unusual noises.
It does not include further testing: A DVI doesn’t mean in-depth tests and investigations; it’s a surface-level report that tells whether a car needs evident repairs or deeper inspections.

If they spot control arm issues, they’ll take photos of them and edit images and videos to indicate what they found (damages, leaks, components’ locations, etc.). They’ll use arrows, circles, and text to make the images clear and easy to understand.

Note that the DVI doesn't involve additional testing, so the advisor will be only taking notes based on what they see (visual inspection). In the image below, the vehicle went into inspection because it was shaking while driving. The mechanic found out it was because of a leak in the control arm.

Faulty control arm bushing

A document with the vehicle’s health status is sent to the customer, with room for questions through online/phone or over-the-counter communication. The customer sees what repair priorities their vehicle has and what should be checked in the near future.

In this case, they’ll see a control arm and bushings replacement priority. The focus is to educate and help the customer make informed decisions about their car.

Certifications that help you

Today’s auto industry has certifications for customer-educational and transparent businesses. For example, the AutoTechIQ certification makes shops that fit into the DVI method stand out on your local map. So you can find the one closest to you.

The shops with an AutoTechIQ certification typically feature 100+ excellent Google reviews! You can quickly find this certification on a shop’s website or using AutoTechIQ’s “Find a shop” map.